Riding Off The Map In Southern England
Text by Jeremy Cuff/www.ja-universe.com
Photography by Jeremy & Amanda Cuff/www.ja-universe.com
It’s not easy to be riding “off the grid” anywhere in England in the modern age, with perhaps Dartmoor, Exmoor, the Pennines, the North Yorkshire Moors, the Lake District and Northumberland offering the best options, all of which are mostly mountains and moorland. But in the South of the country, especially in the lowlands, there’s few areas that could be considered “off the grid” except perhaps Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire, a large swathe of land used as a military training area. Though its’ usually off-limits to the general public, it is possible to ride there at times. Here’s a bit of history about the area, and some pointers as to how to go about riding there…
Salisbury Plain is one of the largest expanses of semi-wilderness outside of mountains and moorland here in the UK. It mostly consists of chalk downland and grassland interspersed by river valleys and chalk streams. Rare wildlife abounds there.
Most of the time it’s largely off limits, with access restricted by the Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.) who use the area for military drills and manouevres. Around the perimeter are “garrison towns and villages” such as Tidworth, Warminster, Bulford, Durrington, Larkhill, Netheravon, Perham Down, West Down, Knook, Tilshead, Everleigh, Enford Down, Amesbury/Boscombe Down and Ludgershall (it’s not an exhaustive list, so apologies to any places I may have “missed”).
The area was first envisaged as a military training area back in WWII, as it was very sparsely populated. It would therefore be easier to re-locate small numbers of inhabitants elsewhere, rather than large amounts of people from more densely populated areas, compounded by the dangers, difficulties and hardships of doing this during the war itself.
The biggest single population centre within the Salisbury Plain area around the time of WWII was the village of Imber, whose residents were evicted in 1943, following the M.O.D. acquiring much of the surrounding land. This enabled the village itself and the wider area to be used by the Allies as a secret training area where planning, preparation and practicing for the invasion of Europe was undertaken, resulting in the push-back and eventual defeat of the Nazi forces.
At the end of the war, the inhabitants of Imber (circa 150 at the time of the eviction) were prohibited from returning, and the entire area has remained in control of the military ever since. When peacetime returned, though not in recent years, attempts were made by campaigners to re-establish the village, but they were all refused. I suspect that the prospect of return has become even more improbable due to few (if any) former inhabitants still surviving, and their descendants’ connection to the village being ever more tenuous. In modern times, there’s no shortage of instability in the world to where the UK’s military could conceivably have some future involvement and recently, it has been used for example, to prepare for conflicts such as Northern Ireland, the Gulf War and Afghanistan.
Many of Imber’s original buildings (though not all) have been degraded or destroyed, either by the ravages of time, or by the military activity. Around the area of the village where some of the original buildings might have once stood, a number of empty house-like structures have been constructed to enable the military to practice “house to house” combat.
The most notable exception to this is St. Giles Church, which has a long history dating back as far as the 13th Century. During the sporadic opening of the “Imber Ranges” to the public, the church is used for services, hosts a small market where local societies can exhibit, and wares and foods such as Imber Honey are offered. There are also opportunities for descendants of the evicted villagers to tend the graves of family members.
Today, Salisbury Plain is one of (if the the) largest tract of undisturbed grassland in Western Europe, and is superficially like the plains of East Africa in appearance if you apply a bit of imagination. I sometimes describe a journey through Salisbury Plain as “Crossing the Serengeti”.
Its’ isolation and lack of use in terms of intensive agriculture (an activity which increased dramatically in WWII in order to supply food to the population) has also resulted in the entire area becoming a haven for rare wildlife. For example, it contains internationally important meta-populations of both the Marsh Fritillary and Duke of Burgundy Fritillary butterfly, both of which have suffered huge declines across the UK.
In terms of birds, it’s a sanctuary for the similarly threatened Skylark, and a UK stronghold of the elusive Stone Curlew. In the remote spots, away from roads and people, you can sometimes see Barn Owls on the wing during the daylight hours, and it’s been an area chosen for the re-introduction of the Great Bustard (Google “The Bustard Project”), a long-term project which has enjoyed some success.
Bordering the Salisbury Plain area are some historic and iconic sites, such as numerous Iron Age hill forts, and of course, the Stonehenge World Heritage complex near Amesbury to the South, which attracts visitors from around the world.
It is, of course, the inaccessibility of the area that sparks curiosity and attracts visitors, and at certain times it is possible to enter. This is normally the case during Easter weekends and over Christmas into the New Year, where access is granted to the abandoned village of Imber. These windows of time (the precise dates are usually published online) are great opportunities to visit places normally off-limits, though it isn’t completely obvious as to where the limits of access actually extend to, especially in the wider areas of the plain away from Imber.
I perhaps take a slight risk of a knock on the door by saying that in order to have good rides and a proper explore, I’ve taken some liberties with this “extent of access” point, my mantra being “If it doesn’t say that it’s closed, then it must be open, right?”. That said, it’s wise to stay on the tracks, rather than be tempted to stray off into the endless greenery where unexploded ordnance and other horrible surprises may lurk, and consider that phone signals might be non-existent if you need help anywhere on the plain. You, of course, do this at your own risk. Best keep it sensible.
Imber village is, of course, the most obvious area to visit, and is most easily accessed from Warminster to the West and from the A360 “Devizes” road between West Lavington and Tilshead to the East; from either of these entry points, there’s a good sealed road, albeit with some sharp-edged potholes to look out for. There’s also another entry point from the Northern direction, from the village of Bratton near Westbury, though once you reach the plain and enter the military zone, the lane becomes unsealed and becomes a track. Your tyres, type of motorcycle, weather conditions and riding skills will be the determinant of whether you try this route. If you do, it joins the Warminster to Imber road; just turn left at the T-junction to reach the abandoned village.
From Warminster, there’s also what is known locally as the “concrete road” – a military access road that fringes the Southern and Western area of the plain, reaching all the way around to the A360 near Tilshead. There are various other “access points” to this road such as at Heytesbury and Chitterne, but I’ve never been clear as to whether the M.O.D. allow (or encourage) access to this road when Imber is open.
I’ve rode “the concrete” on a number of occasions, it’s in great condition and is highly scenic, flowing and enjoyable. It also provides access to unsealed tracks that cross the higher and more remote areas of the plain. One track, accessible from the “concrete road” near Heytesbury can take you all the way to Imber. If it’s been wet, expect large muddy puddles and ruts to navigate and watch out for puncture hazards, as there’s lots of sharp stones.
To the East of the A360 “Devizes road”, there’s another large section of the plain, much of which is very inaccessible and seldom visited. In the past, the Wiltshire Wildlife Trust used to organise a fundraiser called the Sarsen’s Trail (A Neolithic Marathon) where participants could seek sponsorship to walk, run or cycle from Avebury to the Stonehenge area. The Sarsen’s Trail crossed this area of the plain, from Red Horn Hill to the North, to Rollestone Camp near Larkhill in the South.
Being a former motocross rider, I’m undaunted by unsealed roads unless my bike is unsuitable or the conditions are terrible, so I decided to head across to the Northern edge of the plain from Warminster (where I live) on my BMW R1200 GSA, passing Westbury White Horse, Bratton, Erlestoke, Market Lavington, Easterton and Urchfont which is a nice ride in its’ own right.
I would then ride across this whole section from Red Horn Hill due South. It had been a very dry and warm Spring and the restrictions of Covid had been in place, so it was great to be outside, on the move, and travelling around. At the top of Red Horn Hill, I had a look at the start of the track, noticed it was stony and decided to chance my luck.
My road tyres were less than ideal here, and I was bothered about endless sharp flints that made punctures a distinct possibility with every rotation of the wheels, but I was careful and it turned out fine. In areas of the plain such as this, it’s worth stopping, killing the engine, getting off, removing your lid and just listening; no traffic noise, no fences, just the breeze and birdsong, and if in Spring, the hum of insects. I stopped to take a couple of photos, looked at my sat nav, and saw that I was sat in a sea of green pixels, with no known road in sight. I thought, “My sat nav’s got lost”. It was a nice moment.
Emboldened by this, I continued to head due East, still off-road. A large dust-cloud billowed satisfyingly behind me as I continued to the North of Larkhill and across the A345 “Pewsey to Marlborough” road all the way to Tidworth. I found myself in a large area of tank tracks, and quickly recognised that I was in an area where I once raced motocross. It brought back memories of the last time I raced there, in the AMCA Experts class racing Kevin Ruddock, Wayne Ellis and my old mate Robin Hewlett (Rabbit). If on the off chance that any of them are reading this, “How you doin’ guys?”
From Tidworth, I returned West, re-tracing some of my route before deviating at Larkhill and Rollestone to take in the area around West Down, close to the village of Tilshead. It was great to think that apart from crossing a couple of “official” roads, it’s possible to ride all the way from Warminster to Tidworth and back.
For riders unable or unwilling to risk the unsealed tracks, or are visiting outside of the “opening times”, the Salisbury Plain area is fringed by some interesting roads and places to visit. It’s quite enjoyable, for example, to circumnavigate the entire area either as an actual circuit or perhaps as a figure of eight, or if visiting during the “opening times” of Christmas or Easter, a rider could plan a mixture of roads within the restricted zones and those on the normal network of roads.
So, for bikers looking for something a bit different to do rather than riding the same old roads, Salisbury Plain offers some new experiences and vistas. You can expect rolling chalk grassland, secluded and sheltered valleys and combes, rare wildlife, intermittently flowing stream beds, heaths and gorse stands, random criss-crossing of tank tracks, ancient hillforts, barrows and earthworks, rusted out tanks, turrets, observation posts, army practice buildings and perhaps even soldiers lying in wait in the grass whilst you ride past.
And perhaps best of all, you can escape the tyranny of the sat nav, and bathe for a while in a sea of green pixels. You are then officially “off the map”.
IN THE VICINITY…
Places to visit in the immediate periphery of Salisbury Plain;
- The Bustard Project (A unique project dedicated to the re-introduction of the Great Bustard)
- Stonehenge (A World Heritage site, known the world over)
- Woodhenge (A historic site close to Stonehenge)
- Warminster (A town famous for UFO sightings in the 1960’s, and access point to Salisbury Plain)
- Battlesbury & Scratchbury Hill Forts (Wildlife rich scenic Iron Age hill forts close to Warminster)
- Westbury White Horse (Wiltshire’s iconic white horse, affording fabulous views of West Wiltshire)
- Edington Farm Shop (Excellent farm shop at Edington, near Bratton)
- Cotley Hill (A wildlife rich chalk down between Warminster and Heytesbury with easy access)
- Market Lavington (A large, historic village on the Northern fringe of Salisbury Plain)
- Everleigh Ashes (A wildlife rich woodland complex on the Eastern side of Salisbury Plain)
- The Hawk Conservancy (A popular aviary specialising in birds of prey near Andover)
- Thruxton Race Circuit (A race circuit and karting venue on the Southern edge of Salisbury Plain)
Further flung places of interest, but in the vicinity of Salisbury Plain;
- Bradford-on-Avon (A historic and scenic town on the River Avon in West Wiltshire)
- Frome (A historic and scenic town just across the county border in Somerset)
- The Longleat Estate & Safari Park (A well-known stately home with many attractions, such as the famous safari park)
- Salisbury (Wiltshire’s Cathedral city, in the South West of the county)
- Wilton (A historic small town on the edge of Salisbury)
- Stockbridge (A lovely small town to the South of the Salisbury Plain area)
- Pewsey & The Vale of Pewsey (A small town to the North of Salisbury Plain)
- Pewsey Downs (Chalk downland rich in wildlife affording views over the Vale of Pewsey towards Salisbury Plain)
- Marlborough (A historic town to the Northeast of Salisbury Plain)
- Savernake Forest (An ancient forest near Marlborough)
- Avebury Rings (Historic village and home to the iconic stone circle)
- Devizes (Historic market town to the North of Salisbury Plain)
- The Wylye Valley (The chalk river valley between Warminster and Wilton)